![]() ![]() Many of her collections have been punctuated by sizeable emeralds, from heavyweight, pear-shaped versions mimicking leaves in the rose-shaped Bal de Mai necklace from 2011 to 2019’s Vert Prairie emerald choker sprinkled with offset Asscher-cut emeralds next to multicolored sapphires and chrysoberyls. Since the beginning of Victoire de Castellane’s 25-year career at Dior, where she reigns as the longtime creative director of jewelry, colored stones have always been a focal point. As a result, the exclusivity of these one-of-a-kind creations makes them just as difficult, if not more, to add to your collection. Not to be overshadowed by a Kelly or a Birkin, these works manage to blend classicism with an edgy appeal. The French house is known for its restraint, but jewelry is a medium where it can be good to let spectacle go unchained, so to speak. But the most magnificent take was unveiled with the Parisian firm’s latest high-jewelry collection: a white-gold necklace whose links are set with an intricate pavé of diamonds or a dégradé of black spinels and blue sapphires. ![]() Since 1937, it has adorned everything from bracelets to belts to flatware. While most Hermès products have their roots in the equestrian world, its 86-year-old Robert Dumas–designed Chaîne d’ancre (anchor chain) motif was inspired by the sea. Jewelry of the Year: Hermès Collier Chaînes d’ombre.Which just goes to show that everything old is new again-and vice versa. Not to be outdone, if rumors are to be believed, Bulgari may be planning a men’s-size Serpenti watch. Jordan upped the ante at this year’s Oscars by wearing not one but two of the brooches, with one bird perched atop a 32-plus-carat pink morganite and another standing on a green tourmaline of over 58 carats. A month later, Jay-Z-a Tiffany ambassador-pinned one to the lapel of his tux at the 94th Academy Awards. was spotted sporting a large citrine Bird on a Rock when he arrived at Super Bowl LVI. Recently, though, Tiffany has made an effort to lift its bird to new heights by courting a new demographic: guys. Among the first to purchase one was the late socialite Bunny Mellon, and it has since been regarded as a must-have collector’s item among the well-heeled. Designed by Jean Schlumberger in 1956, it has remained a status symbol for 67 years. And New York City–based Brazilian designer Ana Khouri pumped up her signature sculptural designs with bigger and bolder gems, including a 20.65-carat yellow diamond and a 5.54-carat pink diamond, which debuted at TEFAF, the European Fine Arts Foundation, in May 2022.īut at Tiffany & Co., a design shift was entirely unnecessary for the famous Bird on a Rock brooch. The piece is reminiscent of the company’s instantly recognizable rings featuring colorful ceramic curling, encircling, or twisting around hefty white and colored diamonds. His latest mélange is a bracelet of platinum wrapped in plastic and topped with a 12.3-carat kite-shaped diamond. James de Givenchy of Taffin made his name pioneering the use of ceramic paired with precious gems, as well as combining marble, rubber, wood, and pebbles with fine stones. The trend of looking backward for inspiration is so prevalent that even independent jewelers with slimmer archives are going back to their roots. The high-jewelry piece is a tour de force, despite recycling a design predating WWII. This time around, the French maison engaged in dramatic shadow play to design its Chaîne d’ombre, in which white-diamond segments are offset by larger versions pavé-set with a dégradé of black spinels and blue sapphires. The latest iteration eliminates the head and tail, allowing the eye to focus on the serpent’s body in a new necklace, which creates a sleek, slithering form around the neck, adorned with onyx, emeralds, and diamonds.Īt Hermès, the Chaîne d’ancre, or Anchor Chain-available as a bracelet or a single drop earring, among other pieces-is currently in its 86th year of service. These reinterpretations are done with such frequency that connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike can easily match legendary motifs-Serpenti, Anchor Chain, Bird on a Rock-to the brands that created them (for the uninitiated, that would be Bulgari, Hermès, and Tiffany, respectively).īut recently, the industry’s biggest names haven’t just tweaked decades-old designs but instead have looked to reinvent them.Īt Bulgari, the snake-shaped Serpenti-applied to everything from chokers to watches-is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. ![]() For jewelry houses with long histories, digging through the archives and paying homage to established icons is a perennial practice. ![]()
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